Bryce Canyon is known for surreal towers of stone called hoodoos, pillars of easily eroded rock protected by more sturdy layers located on top. They are not restricted to the park however; hoodoos become visible on the hillsides in the surrounding territory, and a small area called Red Canyon on the road into Bryce, while not part of the park, has similar rock formations. After leaving Red Canyon however, the terrain becomes much like it was before, and as with many parks, the actual feature of the park itself isn’t immediately visible.
Checking into the hotel was an adventure in itself. The front desk was a converted guest room, and could be found by following hastily created folding signs. We were informed that the winter hours were an “experiment” and the rustic appearance of the hotel and amenities closed for the winter brought out a number of horror movie jokes. The restaurant had closed for the winter, but thankfully food could be found in town, and in the general store: also closed. Without TV, we made an evening of playing. National Park Monopoly (Yes, that is a thing.)
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| The Sun rises over the Hoodoos near the Aptly named Sunrise Point. -Mark Kramer, photo |
Sun The following morning we set to explore as much of the park as time permitted. It was partially cloudy, with fog banks lining the horizon hanging over the surrounding cliffs. The hoodoos are alien, but beautiful, rising from piles of crumbled rubble like skyscrapers from an alien city that even a science fiction author couldn’t dream up. The size of Bryce Canyon takes you by surprise: trails that appear to lead to the end of the hoodoos reveal that they stretch for another mile, after rounding a single bend. It being November, the air got noticeably colder as we descended the switchbacks, held in place by masonry of sandstone resembling part of an ancient pueblo. By the time the trail reaches the valley floor, hikers gain an appreciation of just how large the hoodoos are, something that is impossible to understand when looking at them from above. The wasteland only lasts for a few yards. The trail soon emerges into an open ravine where we were greeted by the familiar bark of a Douglas fir tree, rising hundreds of feet to its canopy above the hoodoos. Chipmunks scamper among the rocks and the chatter of hikers hundreds of feet behind you can be heard echoing through the rocks.
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Rows of Hoodoos in nearly perfect rows seen from Inspiration Point, in Bryce Canyon national Park. One of the hiking trails in the park can be seen in the center of the photo -Mark Kramer, Photo
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Further into the park, several overlooks allow unique looks at the hoodoos down below and their surroundings. In some places the orange of the hoodoos is supplemented by white minerals so out of place, they appear to be airbrushed on. In other places, the forest of the valley floor comes right up to the cliff’s edge and a handful of hoodoos rise from behind clusters of pines and fir. The highest point in the park is Rainbow Point, at 9,115 feet. This marks the edge of the park: looking back the hoodoos from an orange ring around an otherwise unimpressive valley of tan soil, pines and underbrush. Bristlecones, some as old as 1600 years cling to life on the top of the cliff using a variety of survival techniques including killing parts of the plant all together.
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Natural Window, an arch carved from the same stone as the hoodoos elsewhere in the park. -Mark Kramer, Photo
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While the park was quiet in November, it was cold, and the wind chill was merciless. In a place as surreal as Bryce Canyon, seeing it at any time is remarkable. That leaves a traveller two choices: brave the crowds, or brave the cold. -KP
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