Zion National Park

We had intended to stay in the Zion Lodge, but when it was found to be full, someone recommended a buffalo ranch that rented out cabins right outside the park. Being my chronically nervous self I had envisioned this as a place to shanghai guests into tending buffalo herds, or a lone creepy cabin in a dark forest. Instead the resort was located on a turnout guarded by a large statue and a check-in desk in a pleasant building surrounded by a flock of finches and free range chickens. Bison were mysteriously absent. Dinner was supposed to be at the lodge but again, the lodge was unavailable. Shuttle service is the only way to the lodge, even as late as November, and the shuttle stopped early. Instead we travelled past derelict windmills  and herds of antelope and into the park itself.

Even with my previous visit to the park in April, I was still taken aback by its beauty. As with the Grand Canyon, Zion National Park is impressive because of its scale―vertical in this case―and its array of colored rock, ranging from clay-like tans to orange and rusty reds. Cliffs glow in the evening sunlight, making even these humble tans look impressive.  The shapes of the rock itself are as alien as those in Glen Canyon, but unlike the rocks of Glen Canyon which are bare and smooth, the rocks of Zion are cracked and sculpted, covered by small pines and shrubbery which settle wherever they can, making rocky shelves into natural gardens. One of the more impressive elements of the park is the Tunnel, a passage blasted through the rocks of the mountain itself. The tunnel is lined with portals which are good for photos, but sneak up on you. If you manage to catch a glimpse out from the tunnels, these momentary views are―and I don’t use this word lightly―breathtaking. Beyond the tunnel, the road descends to the valley floor along a series of switchbacks, allowing many opportunities to enjoy the majesty of the canyon. At night these switchbacks are lit up by headlights of travelers on the light, splashing the canyon with light and illuminating details missed by day. herds of bighorn sheep can be seen as well.

The Virgin River and Zion Valley as seen from the trail to the Emerald Pools -Mark Kramer, Photo

Exploring the park itself is difficult by car. Much of it is wilderness―inaccessible by road. The main canyon of the Virgin River is accessible, but can only be travelled by shuttle bus. At the end of the shuttle route into the canyon is a trail leading to the narrows, the narrow slot canyon of the Virgin River. The trail ends at a walled in platform, lined with Cairns in April, all of which had been destroyed over the course of the summer. Continuing past this overlook, the trail meets the river itself, and continues a mile or more along the river bed. Wet feet are a must―the river is too deep to hop rocks―and so one must come prepared, though rentals are available at the lodge. Another point of interest is the trail to the Emerald Pools. The lower two trails are relatively uninteresting, about the size of a hot tub, and only about half a foot deep. The trail up from the middle pool is challenging, carved into the hillside itself, following the canyon of the stream that feeds the pools from snowmelt atop the cliffs. The canyon is dry, and split down the middle: firs and broadleaf trees on one side, and a thicket of live oaks on the other through which the trail is cut. The trail is long, and impatient travelers may begin to question if the trip is worth it. Up and over the final hill, the trail passes through a thicket of broadleaf trees, and onto a beach with the larger Upper Emerald Pool at the end. Hikers gather here and exchange words, while those who look up are treated to the full scene hinted at by the partial views of the cliff seen from the trail. From the Upper Emerald Pools, the cliffs rise and curve slightly over the pool, forming a massive alcove. Moisture from the pool gives rise to small gardens of grasses moss and liverworts.

The park was originally named “Mukuntuweap” a Southern Paiute word meaning “straight up place” or something along those lines. The park was designated a national monument in 1909, and became a park ten years later. -KP

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