The (Rail)Road to Essex

Essex, MT-- About halfway through my second year at SOU, I was growing weary of the academic scene. I had been in school since two years of kindergarten with only summers for breaks. After failing my first course and consequently withdrawing, I decided to take spring term off along with summer, and get away from school to get some work experience. While at school I examined a few jobs, and interviewed for one, but when housing couldn’t be provided, I declined, and went home instead to begin organizing my summer job. 

The Westbound Empire Builder arrives in Essex, MT. While the town is accessible from US Route 2, Amtrak is an efficient way to get to the Inn and the company provides a complementary van to the station.

I turned my head to the stars, so to speak, and looked at several national parks. I interviewed with Bryce Canyon, and Grand Tetons. Meanwhile though I thought back to a railroading magazine which had talked about the Izaac Walton Inn, in Essex Montana. It was located right off of the mainline for BNSF Railway’s line from Seattle to Chicago. I applied, interviewed, and ultimately got a job as a night audit. By early June, I was on a train bound for Essex. When I arrived, I was given a night on the house, and then moved into my housing.

The first few days were a bit difficult. I worked day shift for about a week before moving into night shift. This put me on a schedule opposite my peers, and they weren’t always understanding of this. Light would stream in my east-facing window when I got in bed. However, after a few months I managed to get comfortable. I made a few friends, settled into the company culture (to the best of my ability anyway.) I also set about exploring the wood along Essex Creek, finding a few special places in the woods, hiking along the Flathead River. By August, I had my favorite places in the woods, the requirements of my job, and a garden in the making.

“Fort Autumn” a fort I built in the woods on the banks of Essex Creek in the woods. It’s made of cobblestones and driftwood. While a bit cramped, it was large enough to sit in. 

However, it was a dry summer in Montana, and a fire broke out within a mile of the lodge. The railroad prepared for war by bringing in a firefighting train nicknamed “Sparky the Fire Train.” The woods were closed off and firefighters arrived in town. Finally, we were evacuated I spent a few days living with a coworker in the area before I was sent home for the summer, “honorably discharged” as it were. Which ended my summer employment.

The skyline of Essex Montana looking West. The  mountains are obstructed by smoke from the Sheep Fire. THe smoke was so thick that air quality was unsafe, and the smell hung in the air everywhere.

I have no regrets however. The lodge had a different culture, which I was forced to settle in to. I had never lived out of Oregon before, and while I was shy, I did make several friends. And the countryside around the lodge? Let’s just say I intend to return someday.